Wednesday, March 23, 2016

The Final Chapter for Winter 2016 - Farewell Panama, Hello USA Road Trip


Monday, March 14, 2016            Our Personal Rainforest Adventure

Happy Pi Day!

Our day began with breakfast (no pie though) in the hotel dining room. We saw some people from our tour and shared the table with lively conversation. We said farewell again and headed on our way.

Our destination was a return trip to Gamboa Rainforest Resort. We had enjoyed being in the rainforest during our tour and decided this was the best place to relax and take in the beauty of Panama during our extended stay.

Our taxi was right on time. It was a beautiful day and we had pleasant drive to Gamboa Resort. Interestingly, we could see different things along the road from the car windows than we had from the bus windows, perhaps because the bus windows were higher. We had travelled along some of the roads before and we began to see familiar things. It was exciting to retrace our steps and recall all the activities that had occurred during the last eight days. Our tour really had packed a lot into its itinerary!

We settled into our room and organized some activities for our days here.
Jim relaxed on hammock on our deck, I had a nap on the bed. Later, we wandered down to the swimming pool and immediately located the swim up bar. Margaritas were in our future! Indeed the swim up bar was largely unoccupied and had a wonderful awning that provided protection from the sun. I found it to be a very pleasant way to enjoy the pool, sip a beverage and read a book.

Late in the afternoon, some staff from the nearby Animal Rescue Facility came to talk to a group about sloths. I have to admit that I knew almost nothing about sloths and the presentation was very informative. Did you know there are two-toes and three-toes sloths? They all have three toes on their back feet but their front feet are different. They also eat different types of food. The three-toed sloth lives primarily at the top of trees and eats only fresh leaves. The two-toed sloth is much less particular about its food although it is also a vegetarian.

We enjoyed our dinner. The food at this resort has always been well prepared and tasty. In spite of that I have to admit that buffet meals are getting a little tiresome. For that reason, we have booked into an a la carte restaurant for our final night here.

After dinner, we went on a Night Safari ride. A sharp-eyed guide assisted us in finding several cayman, their red eyes in bright in the water and a baby swimming along shore. We also saw a sloth, an agouti, and a Southern Lapwing and a Blackbellied Whistling Duck.

Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Jim began his day with 4 hour extravaganza birdwatching adventure. With the help of Jose, Jim spotted approximately 40 species of birds and a three toed sloth. He got some amazing photos! But the bird he most wants to see still eluded him. He really wants to spot a Toucan.

I spent the morning working on this blog and swimming/reading/relaxing by the pool. We were both doing things we love to do, a great way to spend some time after the very busy schedule we kept on our tour last week.

After lunch, we both went on a Rainforest Canopy Gondola Ride. It was magnificent to be high above the ground, viewing the tops of trees, flowering plants, vines like Tarzan and Jane would have used and a myriad of colours that appear in the rainforest. At the end of the gondola ride was a look-out tower nine stories high. Those who made it to the top report that the view was incredible. They could see the canal, the Chagras River which provides all the water for the canal (no salt water at all), the Embera Indian village. On our return gondola trip we saw a two toed sloth, monkeys, and tropical wild flowers in bloom. We heard a toucan but could not find him. Poor Jim.

We enjoyed a drink at Monkey Bar back at the resort and watched more parrots fly in and out of the nearby trees. After a short time of relaxing in our room, it was time for dinner. Tonight’s theme was Asian and there were some interesting dishes on the buffet.

More CNN back in our room as we watched the US Presidential Primary results with interest.


Wednesday, March 16, 2016

We both got up early this morning to go out in search of birds. We borrowed two deck chairs and settled in near the resort birdfeeders. I was in awe of what we saw. Birds of all colours and sizes – red, green, light blue, dark blue, black and white, orange and pink. Sadly, we cannot name all the species although Jim is working with his birdwatching guide to name as many as possible.

We sat quietly sipping our coffee and clicking the camera, trying to get the perfect shot. An agouti and a beautiful squirrel also came by. Then Jim went for coffee refills and three Jefferies tamarind monkeys appeared in the trees. It took a while for them to actually drop down onto the birdfeeders but the scent of the bananas finally convinced them to approach. It was fun to watch them frolic about, such little bodies and long tails and so agile! Too bad Jim missed the show.

Later in the morning, we paid a visit to a nearby wildlife rescue centre where we were able to see sloths, an anteater, a porcupine, caymen, turtles, a jaguar, and a newly rescued monkey (he remained hidden). It was interesting to hear the stories of the rescues, the efforts to reintroduce the animals to the wild, the medical care required and the challenges of having too many animals for the space available. The jaguar was very special and will be used as a part of a breeding program as soon as she is old enough, hopefully within the next four months. She will be shipped to the USA once all the regulations have been satisfied and the paperwork done. This really is a labour of love for the people who operate this centre.

Today we had lunch at a riverside restaurant from which it is possible to watch the ships in the canal sail past on their journey from one ocean to the other. Our resort is beautifully located with visual and physical access to the canal but also situated deep in the rainforest and surrounded by birds, plants and animals that are unique to Panama.

Panama is a haven for birds of all kinds, more than any other location in the world. We are so lucky to be here and able to enjoy the beauty of so many species.

After lunch, we returned to the resort and visited the Gamboa Gift Shop. We purchased only one item – a bird identification chart. There really is a theme at this stage of our adventure.

Our early morning necessitated a short nap which we followed up with some wonderful pool time. Once again, the swim up bar proved to be a great source of beverages as well as a protected place for reading. Some swimming, some reading, a margarita at the ready …. What a great way to while away an afternoon.

We enjoyed a lovely meal in an a la carte restaurant at the resort with our food served by the delightful Elia. The balance of the evening was spent packing as we leave this amazing place tomorrow.




Thursday, March 17, 2016

In search of the elusive toucan, Jim went out once more this morning with a birdwatching guide to see if he could find the bird he most wants to see. This time, they walked along an old pipeline trail and within 5 minutes had found a toucan. The next challenge was to get close enough to get a great photo. Jim also accomplished this goal so he felt very good about this outing. He and his guide spent about 4 hours on the trail and found over 50 species of birds. A great day out, for sure.

As it was an overcast day, the pool was not calling my name. It was a good day for me to remain in our room and work on this diary and our photo collection.

About mid-afternoon we reluctantly left Gamboa and taxied to an airport hotel where we had dinner and settled in for the evening. Morning would come early with a 6 am flight.

Friday, March 18, 2016

We started today with an early morning flight to Dallas, followed by a connecting flight to New Orleans. We found our car right where we had left it in the hotel parking lot. It was in good working order and started immediately. We drove a short distance and stayed overnight slightly west of New Orleans. We could see huge thunderstorms in the distance but we were safely in our hotel by the time they reached us. The downpour of rain gave us some sense of the amount of water that has fallen on this region in recent days and weeks. No wonder there is so much water all around. We were tired from a day of travel that had begun at 4 am so we fell into bed early, happy to be on the final leg of this year’s winter adventure.


Saturday, March 19, 2016                   
The Final Chapter of Our Winter Adventure

Laundry was the first order of the day. We had to reorganize our suitcases to reduce the hot weather clothing and reluctantly add in warmer clothes that we might wear as we drove closer and closer to home.

We established our route: a leisurely drive north through Hot Springs, Arkansas; Memphis, Tennessee; St Louis, Missouri; Indianapolis, Indiana; and Ann Arbor, Michigan. We were looking forward to being on the road toward home.

We enjoyed an ample but very late breakfast at the Huddle House, an odd little restaurant with great food, including biscuits and gravy. You can only get them in the southern states.

This was the first day of our last week on the road, the last facet of our Winter Adventure 2016. We drove north through Louisiana. It was still warm outside and we were enjoying wearing our spring clothes. It was spring here – water, water everywhere! The Mississippi and all its associated streams and rivers in its delta had overflowed their banks and the land was covered with water. Most of the roads we were on were elevated to avoid the water but there were signs warning of road closures due to water all around us.

We crossed briefly into the state of Mississippi and travelled along the levees that were holding the mighty Mississippi back. The water in the river was brown with mud and it was flowing fast. There was frequent evidence of damage to docks and piers. Much of the land closest to the river was swamp or bayou. Once we moved further from the river, the land transformed to fields and agriculture became an industry.

The northern part of Louisiana and most of Arkansas were flat, flat, flat!
Enormous fields of crops were under cultivation. Cotton and rice are grown in this area and huge silos were at the ready for the mature crop. At this point in the year, the fields were just showing signs of growth and were soft green. As we travelled further north, Arkansas changed from flat agricultural land into gently rolling pine forest.

We stopped for dinner and the night in Pine Bluff, Arkansas.

Sunday, March 20, 2016

Early this morning, we drove to Hot Springs, Arkansas (Bill Clinton’s home town). Just as the name suggests, there are hot springs in this town. These hot springs are not created from volcanic activity but simply bubble up from deep underground. As a result, these warm waters do not contain any sulphur and are consequently odour-free.

Hot Springs is a lovely town built against the backdrop of a beautiful mountain. The Main Street is a veritable tourist mecca, lined on one side with colourful and appealing shops, hotels, restaurants, wax museums, mountain equipment outlets, clothing stores and, of course, souvenir shops. On the other side of the street, there is Bathhouse Row featuring eight original elegant bathhouses built between 1892 and 1923. Five have been retired from public use but two of the bathhouses have been renovated and reopened to the public.

Jim and I chose to go to the Quapaw Bath and Spa where there were four elegant pools of varying temperatures. Of course, we tried all four. It was a wonderful and relaxing way to spend some time.

We then had breakfast at a local restaurant, Granny’s Kitchen, and did some shopping in a mountain equipment shop. Uncharacteristically, I found a jacket that I liked a lot and it fit! And the price was just right. So, it made its way into a bag and into the car.

We crossed the street to visit Fordyce Bathhouse, an original spa building, and now the visitors centre for Hot Springs National Park. It is set up as it would have been when it was first opened in the 1920’s. It features baths, dressing rooms, treatment rooms, and a gymnasium with the latest in fitness equipment. Outside there was access to the Grand Promenade where elegant ladies and gentlemen would walk to capture the outdoor mountain air.

We drove to top of mountain with its beautiful vistas and lovely roads through woodland. Here we witnessed the coming of spring, new growth on trees, barely green, leaves slowly unfurling; shrubs and fruit trees in blossom; redbuds cloaked in their delicate deep pink, growing in gardens and wild along the road. It was wonderful to see and to anticipate again soon after we arrive home.

Just outside Hot Springs, we visited Garvan Woodland Gardens. The daffodils were almost over but the tulips (25,000) were in full bloom. We  toured the garden in a golf cart with an entertaining driver who provided anecdotes and information. These gardens are in a beautiful setting high on a hillside in forested landscape with gardens strategically placed to enhance beauty and take advantage of sunlight. With the sun filtering through the trees, it was a magical time to be there.

Then we continued on our way. We enjoyed driving along country roads; passing through small villages; seeing the contrasts of wealth and poverty; witnessing the growth of crops – the fields already green with early planting; being dwarfed by vast forests. What a grand way to experience travel.

We stopped briefly in Little Rock, Arkansas, to see Little Rock Secondary School, one of first American high schools to be integrated. In September, 1957, nine courageous black students, supported by their families and a security detail entered the school and attended classes. It was a difficult transition and took great courage and resilience from the original nine, as they were called. There is a striking monument featuring all nine students with quotes of reflection about their experience at the high school and the impact it has had on their lives.

We spent the night in Forrest City, Arkansas.

Monday, March 21, 2016

First day of spring!! Glad to see that date on the calendar. Between the natural rotation of the earth and daylight savings time, the days are certainly getting longer.

We drove from Forrest City in Arkansas to Memphis, Tennessee this morning, hoping to reach the National Civil Rights Museum at 10 am when it opened. We almost made it and entered the Museum soon after 10. In the courtyard of the museum, the original parking lot of the Lorraine Motel, were video recordings of various conversations that Martin Luther King Jr. had while he was alive. Watching and listening to these certainly set the tone for visiting this amazing museum.

We had a very provocative experience during the hours we spent at the National Museum of Civil Rights, created in the very motel where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated. King was assassinated on the balcony of this building in 1968. The museum opened in 1991. The exterior of the motel has been preserved but the interior has been completely renovated and expanded to accommodate the contents of the museum. The displays were informative and engaging. The story was heartrending. The demonstration of courage by so many to stand up for their rights was inspiring. The opportunity to stand in the rooms where King last spent his time was profound. And the link to ongoing struggles where rights are denied or disrespected reminded us not to be cavalier about how far we have come but to be vigilant in ensuring we go further. It was indeed a call to action ... We walked out of the museum silently. There was really nothing to say.

And now … quite a contrast from the museum. We travelled from the museum to Graceland and to see two Elvis statues. A bonus was a statue of B.B. King, the King of the Blues. Another face of Memphis.

We enjoyed Beale Street with its many music venues and colourful pedestrian strip.

We also drove along the Mississippi River one last time and saw a river cruise ship in port. Hmmm …. Now there is an idea.

We crossed the Mississippi River again and travelled on its west side in Arkansas again on our way to Missouri. We encountered more agriculture and flat expanses of land as we travelled along the highway. We still were on the Mississippi flood plain. An interesting historical piece about this stretch of land is that around 1812 there were several significant earthquakes over a period of several months in southern Missouri. They are described as the strongest earthquakes ever felt in North America. Scientific analysis places the strongest ones well above 8 on the Richter Scale. These quakes changed the course of the Mississippi River and the course of history in this part of Missouri as villages collapsed and populations moved away. It is still possible to see some geological features in landscape caused by those earthquakes – depressions in land, sand dunes and, course, the new course of the Mississippi.

We stopped for dinner at the Home of the Throwed Roll, Lambert’s Café, in Sykeston, Missouri. It’s a busy place with good down-home food. Jim ordered chicken and dumplings and I order a chicken pot pie. Both dishes came with two sides as well as the fried okra, baked beans, and pan-fried potatoes that were dished out of large bowls by servers who roamed the restaurant. And let’s not forget about those rolls. As the large, hot rolls come out of the oven, a server brings them into the dining room and calls out to see who would like one. Patrons raise their hands and the server literally throws a roll to you to catch. They are hot, they are large and they are delicious. Apple butter and treacle are also brought around to the tables by a server to have on your roll. There is no excuse at all to leave Lambert’s hungry. Cash or cheque only though. There is an ATM in the lobby.

We spent night in a nearby small town, Charleston, Missouri.

Tuesday, March 22, 2016

As we occasionally do, we made a last minute change in our plans. Instead of heading to St. Louis, we decided to go east to the Ohio River to see the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. Both these rivers are large and navigable. The Ohio River flowed brown into a much bluer Mississippi. The brown and blue waters ran side by side for a long while before blending totally. There is substantial shipping on the Ohio River with barges tied up all along the banks. We crossed both rivers for no particular reason except that we could. They both had very long, high bridges and high levees. We crossed from Missouri into Illinois by crossing the Mississippi River and we crossed from Illinois into Kentucky when we crossed the Ohio River. Because of the high levee along the Ohio River, we had to travel several miles before we could turn around. We needed to turn around because we wanted to travel across Illinois and not across Kentucky to get to Indianapolis. Always fascinated with borders, this was the intersection of the borders of three states – Kentucky, Missouri, Illinois.

The first community we came to in Illinois was Cairo (pronounced Karo). We spent some time in Cairo, once a grand old town with a population of 40,000, now almost abandoned with only 3000 people remaining. Many of the houses have fallen into ruin, roofs caved in, windows shattered, siding rotted away. The bricks on the cobblestone streets are broken or missing. The once beautiful gardens are overgrown and neglected. It was a tragic sight. One of the only active stores was the Dollar General, one piece of evidence of a destitute economy. Our observation is that Dollar Generals seem to appear in many economically depressed areas.

Leaving Cairo behind, we made our way to the interstate roads once again and headed toward Indianapolis.

Along the way, we made only two stops – one voluntary and the other not so much so.

Our first stop was in Illinois. Apparently, I missed the speed limit signs on a ramp from one highway to another in the midst of changing roads and travelling through a construction zone. But the police officer noticed. So we were pulled over and he nicely explained that exceeding the speed limit in a construction zone led to a $375.00 fine and a mandatory court appearance. Somehow that information made it less painful when he told me he would issue a reduced citation for only $120.00 (about $150.00 Canadian) and not require me to return to Illinois to go to court. Wow! That was lucky!!

Later, we stopped for lunch in Marshall, Illinois where Jim got a beard trim and I got a manicure at a lovely little day spa on the main street. Our trip was uneventful otherwise and we arrived in Indianapolis about 6 pm.

We are booked into this hotel for two nights – yes! No suitcases tomorrow. We enjoyed a delicious dinner of excellent Thai food which we ate in our well equipped hotel room and relaxed for the evening. There was enough food left for lunch tomorrow as well.

Wednesday, March 23, 2016

Happy Birthday, Jim.

This has been a quiet day. I have been trying to finish this blog and put the finally photos into our photo book. It is always a goal to press ‘send’ on both the day before we get home. Alas, the blog will be complete but not the photo book. It will have to wait until we arrive in Waterloo and add all those bird photos that Jim has taken. It will be worth the wait for sure.

We ate our left over Thai food for lunch and we are going for dinner at the home of Warren and Amanda McCrea and their two sons. Warren is the son of Wayne and Linda McCrea, long time friends in Kitchener. We have known Warren since he was just a little fellow. It will be fun to send some time with them tonight.

Tomorrow we will get an early start in order to have lunch with friends in Ann Arbor, Mike and Dana Kremm. It completes the circle of this adventure since I also had lunch with them on first day of my drive to Florida on February 9. It is nice that Jim will be with me this time.

We have our NEXUS renewal interview in Detroit with the Canadian and American immigration officials later tomorrow afternoon and then we will make a B-line for home, weather permitting. The forecast at the moment is for freezing rain so we may be spending one more night on the road.

We are very happy to be so close to our own home. Yet, we have created memories, enjoyed experiences and learned so much about the world during this adventure. We have seen friends in so many places – Florida, Alabama, Mexico, Indiana and Michigan. We have experienced a new country, Panama, and several new states for me – Mississippi, Arkansas, and Missouri. The world is our oyster and as long as we are able, we are going to keep exploring it.

Until next time ….. thanks for travelling with us.


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